Since we only had a few days to see the region, we wanted to make the most of our time. Excellent planner that he is, Troy had the idea to get a headstart by leaving on Friday afternoon and driving part way, stopping for the night at a bed and breakfast in the region of Lorraine. Using our favorite French B&B book, Troy found the Chateau Jaulny. It is an XI Century(!) chateau and historic monument that just happened to have a room available despite the short notice and was a table d'hôtes, thus a B&B that also serves dinner. (Who just finds stuff like that?!? Troy, that's who. Seriously, I am the husband-lottery winner!)
View of the castle fortifications from below.
A modern gate shields the ancient fortress from view. The oldest buildings on the Chateau Jaulny grounds date from the XIth Century!!! I know I keep saying that, but it's just soooo old.
The chateau consists of several buildings, at one time used as storehouses, an armory, a guardhouse, and living quarters. Now they house guestrooms.
We had a room in the XI/XII century donjon, what we would call in English the castle "keep". That's our window in the center. So. Cool.
We had a beautiful, light-filled suite with a lovely view over the grounds.
For an extremely reasonable price, we enjoyed a deluxe 3-hour dinner of five courses, accompanied by wine and served in the traditional French style (l'apéro, le premier, le deuxième, le fromage, le dessert), and finished with le café et l'infusion (coffee and tea). We took the meal with the other guests, seated around this huge table in the ancient hall. Dinner was fabulous -- quiche lorraine and roasted guinea fowl, with flan and two types of mignardises (tiny cookies or chocolates) for dessert. A delicious and memorable way to kick off our trip!
Troy standing by the beautiful painted chimney in the hall, one of the many historic pieces that have been conserved in the castle.
The chateau has been owned by members of the same family for the last 140 years, giving them ample time to fill it with their enormous collections of old...stuff. Some are veritable antiques, some are plain junk, but all of it was interesting to look through. There's everything from this ancient suit of armor and cross-bow, to German army helmets from the many battles fought nearby, military medals, bullets, swords, photographs, porcelain, even an old toilette set (brush, comb, and mirror).
Germany and France have fought over the regions of Alsace and Lorraine for hundreds of years, most recently in WWII. As we were driving to the chateau, we happened to notice a sign for an American WWI cemetery. (As we have blogged about before, we have come across most of the American cemeteries we have visited purely by accident.) So, on Saturday morning after we left the chateau, we paid a visit to the World War I American Cemetery of St. Mihiel.
This was our first time seeing a WWI cemetery, and in a certain way it was even sadder than the others. Every war is tragic, but the fact that everyone thought it would be the 'War to end wars', combined with the unimaginably-horrifying hand-to-hand combat and trench warfare, made the now-peaceful grounds seem that much heavier, quieter. Like a type of innocence and optimism was lost with the soldiers.
From a design point-of-view, there was a notable difference between this cemetery and the other, later ones we have visited. Though they have all been lovely, this was the most classically beautiful cemetery that we've seen thus far -- the grounds were very formal, symmetrical, and very french. This lovely allée of lindens is just one example.
As always, the perfectly aligned rows of crosses were sobering. There are 4,153 graves at this site, mostly of men who died in September of 1918 halting the German offensive toward Paris.
The neo-classical central monument has a chapel in one wing and a room-sized marble relief map of the St. Mihiel salient in the other.
On a nearby bluff, visible for miles around, is a companion site to the St. Mihiel cemetery, the Montsec Monument.
Dedicated in 1932, this was to be a monument to the lasting peace garnered by the Great War. In a cruelly-ironic twist of fate, the monument itself took shell damage from American troops in 1944 as they were pursuing the withdrawing German forces after the Normandy landings.
I have mentioned my family's military history before, including my great-grandfather's service in the trenches of France during WWI. That connection added a layer of personal meaning to some already interesting historic sites. However, in a crazy twist, after we got home from this trip, I (re)discovered an e-mail from my mom where she explained that my Great-Uncle J.D. was part of the honor guard for the American general who formally accepted the German surrender on May 8th, 1945, in a field near Bouvron. Now, there is a Bouvron in Lorraine, between Toul and Nancy, a few miles from where we were. However, there is another Bouvron, located near St. Nazaire in Brittany, where my uncle's division was also posted, so perhaps the surrender was over there, and thus we were closer during our Normandy trip. We need to do some more research, but regardless it's pretty fascinating to travel extensively through the country my relatives fought to liberate. Troy found a couple of interesting articles about the German surrender, even a history of my uncle's army combat group, the 66th Black Panther Infantry Division.
So far, on the road to Bourgogne, we had encountered history stretching from the time of the Norman-conquest up into the 20th Century, with a family connection to boot. And that was only a day-and-a-half into the trip! What would happen next?
Lorraine & St. Mihiel Cemetery Photo Album - Click Here
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