Art Deco/Art Nouveau Biennale 2011

As a movement in architecture and the decorative arts, Art Nouveau touched most major cities in Europe. Signaling a shift away from the straight-lined formalism of the late 19th century, it welcomed an organic, nature-inspired 'modernism' of a new century. Brussels is considered by many to be the birthplace of Art Nouveau, and four Victor Horta buildings are collectively listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for "representing the highest expression of the influential Art Nouveau style in art and architecture." Despite the city's rather atrocious track record for protecting its architectural patrimony, a huge collection of very fine Art Nouveau buildings still remain.

Take a walk around Brussels and you will see any number of beautiful and interesting Art Nouveau exteriors. But, as the style encompasses the entire building -- from the walls, floors, and ceilings to furnishings and decorations -- often the most beautiful aspects of a building are hidden from public view. That's where the Art Nouveau/Art Deco Biennale comes in. As the name would suggest, this event happens every two years, and dozens of normally-private buildings open their doors to the public. This year's event was even more special as it coincided with the 150th Anniversary of Victor Horta's birth.

Held on the weekends throughout October, Troy, Maren, and I visited various houses on two different weekends. Most buildings were shown in small, guided tours conducted in French, Dutch, or English, so you really got an intimate look at a property. Unfortunately, we were not able to get reservations at any Victor Horta-designed buildings -- those spots seemed to fill up instantaneously -- but we nevertheless managed to see some really cool buildings.



For our first attempt at house-touring with an infant, we mapped out a short itinerary of houses within easy walking distance of ours. After a failed attempt to tour the Maison Blerot, due to Maren getting hungry and us just missing the last English-language tour, we walked to the nearby Maison Delune. In 1904, architect Ernest Delune designed a new façade for an existing house, including this incredible window that mimicked the rhythm of the interior staircase and provided a showcase for the stained-glass-artist-owner's own gorgeous work.


The beautiful Art Nouveau window as seen from the inside.


Maren already appreciates good art and architecture!



The next day went more smoothly as we had reservations at the Maison Cauchie, the former private home and studio of renowned sgraffito artist Paul Cauchie. That's Troy holding Maren out front.



Our tour guide was tickled to have a snoozing Maren on the tour. He cheerfully noted that she was the youngest participant of the weekend.


Sleepy Maren


Decorated fireplace inside the Maison Cauchie


There was even sgraffiti on the interior walls


Maren was bright-eyed and bushy-tailed (as my grandfather used to say) after snoozing most of the day!


Autumn foliage in the Parc Tenbosch


Maren was going through a stroller-hating phase, thus our lovely Bugaboo Cameleon was just an expensive purse holder on house tour weekend 2

We really enjoyed our first weekend of touring, so we decided to try again on the final weekend. Once again, we were a bit thwarted on Day One, but the following day we succeeded in touring the very interesting Art Deco Hôtel Wielemans, though we ended up having to take the tour in Dutch. (Side note, but "hôtel" doesn't necessarily mean the same thing in French as in English. While it can refer to lodgings, it can also refer to a particularly fine house or mansion, as it does in this instance.) Architect Adrien Blomme traveled along with the Wielemans to Granada in Spain to seek design inspiration from the Alhambra for their huge, modern townhouse. Built in 1929, the Hôtel Wielemans presented a very unusual fusion of Moorish/Andalusian and Art Deco design.


Maren and I posing in front of an azulejo and marble staircase. Behind us is the arched dining room doorway holding a lovely grill-work door.


Spanish/Moorish meets Art Deco -- iron grill door and Art Deco ceiling fixture


More tiles in the stairwell and surrounding the window...


...with an Art Deco light fixture at the top.


Tiles ringing the interior "courtyard"


Troy taking a turn with Miss Maren


This incredibly-modern-for-1929 bathroom was completely done in azulejos


The fall colors made the back garden look especially fetching



I won't say that bringing a three-month old on an architectural tour was the easiest thing to do, but for us the important thing was that we got out there and tried. And, for the most part we succeeded. It felt good to do something reminiscent of our pre-baby lifestyle, but also to bring Maren along on something special like this only-in-Brussels tour.