Art Deco/Art Nouveau Biennale 2011

As a movement in architecture and the decorative arts, Art Nouveau touched most major cities in Europe. Signaling a shift away from the straight-lined formalism of the late 19th century, it welcomed an organic, nature-inspired 'modernism' of a new century. Brussels is considered by many to be the birthplace of Art Nouveau, and four Victor Horta buildings are collectively listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for "representing the highest expression of the influential Art Nouveau style in art and architecture." Despite the city's rather atrocious track record for protecting its architectural patrimony, a huge collection of very fine Art Nouveau buildings still remain.

Take a walk around Brussels and you will see any number of beautiful and interesting Art Nouveau exteriors. But, as the style encompasses the entire building -- from the walls, floors, and ceilings to furnishings and decorations -- often the most beautiful aspects of a building are hidden from public view. That's where the Art Nouveau/Art Deco Biennale comes in. As the name would suggest, this event happens every two years, and dozens of normally-private buildings open their doors to the public. This year's event was even more special as it coincided with the 150th Anniversary of Victor Horta's birth.

Held on the weekends throughout October, Troy, Maren, and I visited various houses on two different weekends. Most buildings were shown in small, guided tours conducted in French, Dutch, or English, so you really got an intimate look at a property. Unfortunately, we were not able to get reservations at any Victor Horta-designed buildings -- those spots seemed to fill up instantaneously -- but we nevertheless managed to see some really cool buildings.



For our first attempt at house-touring with an infant, we mapped out a short itinerary of houses within easy walking distance of ours. After a failed attempt to tour the Maison Blerot, due to Maren getting hungry and us just missing the last English-language tour, we walked to the nearby Maison Delune. In 1904, architect Ernest Delune designed a new façade for an existing house, including this incredible window that mimicked the rhythm of the interior staircase and provided a showcase for the stained-glass-artist-owner's own gorgeous work.


The beautiful Art Nouveau window as seen from the inside.


Maren already appreciates good art and architecture!



The next day went more smoothly as we had reservations at the Maison Cauchie, the former private home and studio of renowned sgraffito artist Paul Cauchie. That's Troy holding Maren out front.



Our tour guide was tickled to have a snoozing Maren on the tour. He cheerfully noted that she was the youngest participant of the weekend.


Sleepy Maren


Decorated fireplace inside the Maison Cauchie


There was even sgraffiti on the interior walls


Maren was bright-eyed and bushy-tailed (as my grandfather used to say) after snoozing most of the day!


Autumn foliage in the Parc Tenbosch


Maren was going through a stroller-hating phase, thus our lovely Bugaboo Cameleon was just an expensive purse holder on house tour weekend 2

We really enjoyed our first weekend of touring, so we decided to try again on the final weekend. Once again, we were a bit thwarted on Day One, but the following day we succeeded in touring the very interesting Art Deco Hôtel Wielemans, though we ended up having to take the tour in Dutch. (Side note, but "hôtel" doesn't necessarily mean the same thing in French as in English. While it can refer to lodgings, it can also refer to a particularly fine house or mansion, as it does in this instance.) Architect Adrien Blomme traveled along with the Wielemans to Granada in Spain to seek design inspiration from the Alhambra for their huge, modern townhouse. Built in 1929, the Hôtel Wielemans presented a very unusual fusion of Moorish/Andalusian and Art Deco design.


Maren and I posing in front of an azulejo and marble staircase. Behind us is the arched dining room doorway holding a lovely grill-work door.


Spanish/Moorish meets Art Deco -- iron grill door and Art Deco ceiling fixture


More tiles in the stairwell and surrounding the window...


...with an Art Deco light fixture at the top.


Tiles ringing the interior "courtyard"


Troy taking a turn with Miss Maren


This incredibly-modern-for-1929 bathroom was completely done in azulejos


The fall colors made the back garden look especially fetching



I won't say that bringing a three-month old on an architectural tour was the easiest thing to do, but for us the important thing was that we got out there and tried. And, for the most part we succeeded. It felt good to do something reminiscent of our pre-baby lifestyle, but also to bring Maren along on something special like this only-in-Brussels tour.

Three Months Already - Whoa!!!

Believe it or not, Little Miss is already 3 months old (just over, in fact!) While I won't claim that we have got this baby thing licked, we are starting to learn each others' ways and are settling into some routines. And, like pretty much every parent, we are just marveling at the daily growth and development of our little Chicken.


Maren at 10 Weeks

Once the dust settled, all the visitors departed, and Troy went back to the office, I awoke to the stark reality that it was just me and Maren, so I better figure this thing out. With my new job as "mama", I quickly learned to redefine what constitutes a successful day. At first, a good day entailed making it out of my pajamas by 5pm! But, as with any new skill, practice is leading to improvement and the "success" threshold is going back up with each passing week. For example, the other day was a serious triumph: I got both Maren and I bathed, dressed, and fed, did a load of laundry and unloaded the dishwasher, had a friend over for coffee, went to the the weekly fresh market to buy dinner, and then prepped dinner and got Maren ready for bed before Troy got home from Germany at 9pm. Hooray!


Maren is getting so big that Troy can barely do the panda carry anymore!

Thankfully, we were blessed with a few weeks of summery weather at the end of September, so we tried to spend as much time as possible outside, at the park, or on walks in the center. Sometimes Troy got to join us!


Picnicking with Papa


Staring in wonder at the trees and sky above


The baby's-eye-view of the Parc Tenbosch


Maren's first visit to the Grand Place


With Daddy in front of the Maison de Ville

I'm not the only one who has been learning. Troy has honed his eye for color and can put together some pretty cute outfits for Miss Maren. He has also become quite the grocery shopper and cook. Maren has been practicing her skills too, and in the last few weeks has learned to hold her head up strongly and roll from her belly to her back.


Maren playing on her activity mat at 12 Weeks


Ol' Blue Eyes laughing in her cradle

Despite everything, I'm not certain that I've really grasped that I am a MOM at least in the philosophical sense of the word. But I have pretty well adjusted to the new daily reality of having a baby. Maren is healthy and strong, plus sweet, clever, and a good communicator. Added to that, I have a great community of other stay-at-home wives and moms here, so there is plenty of advice, empathy, and support at hand. Troy has a good job and a fairly flexible schedule, even with the travel demands, and is just the sweetest hubbie and daddy ever. Three months on and my cup overfloweth...



Maren's 3rd Month Photo Album - Click Here

Visitors Galore!

Since Miss Maren was born we've had a revolving door of visitors. First, my parents arrived on August 20th, and brought the sun with them! This is their first grandchild so, as you can imagine, they are completely over the moon.


Maren and Troy taking some sun at a Le Pain du Châtelain with my parents (just out of the shot)


Maren rocking with my dad, aka Papie


Maren snoozing with my mom, aka Mamie

My parents' visit consisted of quality snuggling time with Maren, plus lots of help with grocery store runs and good Southern cooking, doctors appointments and errands. We also got to open up the entire SUITCASE of loot they brought along!!! We did have one big outing, however, on Maren's one month birthday -- Troy found out about the Rosarium Coloma, an amazing chateau and garden about 20 minutes from Brussels that has thousands of different varieties of roses!


Howells at the Rosarium Coloma



The 15 hectare park is free and features formal French-style gardens and wild English cottage-style gardens, plus internationally-themed plantings, historic varietals, climbing roses, and sculptural topiaries.





My mom is an avid gardener and rose lover, so between Maren and the roses, she was in heaven.






Little Miss and Papie aka The Maren Whisperer

It was super hard saying goodbye and their two weeks flew by, but we didn't have much time to mope as 3 days after my parents' departure my sister arrived.


Napping with Auntie B

In addition to the pleasure of her company, Blythe was an enormous help doing chores and helping take care of Maren. And she didn't run for the hills despite my foolish choice to head to the grocery store at 6 pm on the Monday night of the rentrée. We were trapped in Delhaize with a crying baby and no way out except through the check-out lanes (can anyone say fire hazard?!?) which were all 8 people deep! Rookie mistake, but thankfully that's what sisters are for. Maren just loved her Auntie B, and we wish she could move here and be our nanny!!!


Us three girls having a glass of wine at Gaudron


Like Papie, Blythe was The Maren Whisperer


B captured this great shot of Maren happy in her swing!


On Maren's 7 Week birthday, Auntie B decked her out in a headband

Like with my parents, we had one big outing with my sister. The Saturday before she left was a spectacular 80℉ sunny day, and we went to Gent as she didn't get to see it on her last visit.


Blythe on a canal in Gent


At the old port of Gent


Thanks B for the lovely family photo!

The morning Blythe left was a scene of woe as she, I, and Maren were all boo-hooing. Troy said it would have been funny if it weren't so sad. However we were able to distract ourselves that evening with the company of our friends, Oliver and Karel, who were in town at the end of Blythe's visit. We had fun spending time with them, but somehow failed to take a single photograph during their visit. Boo. The week following everyone's departure was quite lonely and especially hard as Troy had to commute to Germany Monday through Thursday (an ongoing, semi-monthly arrangement, unfortunately for us all). Luckily, however, that Thursday my friend Eva was in town from Düsseldorf and paid us a visit. Eva's visit was short, but sweet, and we are hopeful that she can come back soon.


Eva and Maren

Last, but not least, that following weekend our final visitor arrived. Troy's brother Todd has an office in London, and was able to pop down on the Eurostar for the weekend. He and Troy visited the Cantillon Brewery on Zwanze Day, we visited a neighborhood brocante, and had a lovely lunch out at Gusto, a great Italian place in the 'hood. His visit was a short one, but it was still nice introducing Maren to one of her uncles.


Lunching with Uncle Todd at Gusto

We so enjoyed seeing everyone and frankly all got used to Maren having an entourage. This is how we felt when everybody left:



But, this is how grateful we are that everybody made the effort to visit:



Maren Weeks 4-8 Photo Album - Click Here